We have a special soft spot in our culinary hearts for New Orleans cuisine - and we've found John Besh to be a worthy successor to such illustrious forces as Paul Prudhomme and Emeril Lagasse. So his essay from In First We Feast, The 10 Dishes That Made My Career, struck us as a worthy read. After all, there aren't many cooks who combine being a Marine, graduating from the CIA, and cooking in Germany with Louisiana roots.
And the dishes? Here they are - some are obvious and some aren't - the article explains his approach to each in greater detail:
- Shrimp Creole - he adds fresh lemongrass and allspice
- Redfish - baked whole, not blackened or fried
- Oyster and Duck Gumbo - with Andouille is a "weird, delicious" combination
- Trout Meuniére: Respect the fish by forgetting the seasoning (just a little bit of salt, pepper, and lemon)
- Potato Gnocchi: Not many New Orleans chefs regard this as a go-to dish to use as a base for almost anything
- Ragout of Lamb Shoulder with Cavatelli: Add a bit of umami with anchovy and a touch of citrus with orange peel
- Alain's Soupe de Poissons: Blue crab instead of rockfish
- Slow-cooked Tender Tripe: Five-minute cherry tomato sauce is key
- Clafoutis: We love these as well - especially for breakfast
- Walter's Cheesecake: This is what Besh likes for breakfast
As they say in New Orleans, " Laissez les bons temps rouler" (let the good times roll).
Recipe and Image of Cherry Clafouti from Tartalette