One thing I love about cookbooks is that every author lends their own voice to the recipe through the instructions and notes. This gives every book its own vibe and personality, and I will sometimes pull a book off the shelf as much for its tone as for a specific recipe. Authors also develop their own quirky phrases for recipe instructions, which I often find charming but which sometimes annoy me to distraction.

One such phrase is "season to perfection", which I find both vague and imperious: it demands perfection from the reader, yet offers no clue about how to achieve that. Why not just say "season with salt and pepper" and provide an estimated starting quantity? The phrase reminds me of the time my grandmother graciously wrote down a bunch of family recipes for me but did not provide much by way of instructions. One recipe only included the baking temperature but not the time. I called her to ask how long I needed to bake it and she replied "until it's done." That answer, while factual, was incredibly unhelpful. I eventually pried a time estimate out of her, which ensured a successful outcome. (I still treasure that booklet of recipes, which now contains my own notes penciled in next to her instructions.)
But I digress. Back to the matter at hand - should I just shrug off annoying phrases because they don't have any bearing on whether the recipe is a success, or is life too short to put up with text that grates on my nerves? Should it matter that I'm put off by a book's introduction noting that the author has a nanny look to after her child while she is puttering about in her (swoon-worthy) kitchen? There seemed no reason to mention the nanny other than to signal status, which I find odious. That made it harder for me to appreciate the recipes that followed.
There is no shortage of cookbooks that I could read for hours without being annoyed once (anything by Diana Henry or Nigella Lawson, for instance). Why not just cook from those and do a Marie Kondo on the ones I don't love? Because, as I recently learned, I might miss out on excellent recipes by being pedantic or judgmental. I cooked several recipes from the "season to perfection" book; most were fantastic and will be frequently repeated. I'm glad I overcame my irritation to try these recipes, and I hope that I remember this lesson the next time a phrase rubs me the wrong way.
CookShelf
16 comments
bittrette
One real deal breaker (about which I've posted in the Forum) was The Mensch Chef: Or Why Delicious Jewish Food Isn't an Oxymoron, by Mitchell Davis. Just the title pinged me twice.
First, the word "mensch." In German and Yiddish it means literally a human being, and figuratively (at least for a male) a person of the highest moral character. Anyone for The Sterling Character Chef?
Furthermore, the uninflected word "mensch" cannot be used as an adjective; it needs a suffix for that.
Second, I agree that delicious Jewish cooking isn't an oxymoron - not only because I love Ashkenazi Jewish food (gefilte fish, matzo-ball soup, bagels, tzimmes, etc.), but because an oxymoron is always a deliberate rhetorical device meant to point up a paradox. Think "sweet sorrow" (Shakespeare) or "living death" (Milton). Davis means a contradiction in terms.
The book might have some great recipes, but no, thanks - I'll find my Jewish yummies elsewhere.
The might-have-been deal breaker is a book on entertaining, from the 80's or 90's, which I think was by Barbara Kafka. The advice on composing a gue st list suggested inviting that ____ couple or that ____ couple. Couples only? Why didn't the author just come out and say that singletons aren't worthy of a social life, at least of the dinner-party kind, and explain why?
In my case there was no deal to break.
KatieK1
On another note, I am annoyed when the picture of the finished dish clearly has ingredients that aren't listed in the recipe, unmentioned garnishes for example. A while ago I remember an author's introduction apologizing for the food stylist having gone overboard and asking the readers to ignore the pictures!
thegluttery
Because of the sheer number of books being produced, you would need a dedicated, well-staffed test kitchen just to sample a solid percentage of available recipes. While I understand your fear that you might be missing out on something truly excellent, time itself demands the same opportunity cost. Each recipe that you choose to make takes the place of another. So, if I find something as simple as an irritating phrase off-putting about a recipe, there are thousands more waiting to take its place.
demomcook
gamulholland
bittrette
The worst offender: yellow text on a white background. Whose idea was that, anyway?
It's poetic justice that The Mensch Chef is out of print.
KatieK1
KarenGlad
averythingcooks
Also - I have a "season to perfection" author on my shelves...hmmm...can there be more than one?
Jane
bittrette
Rinshin
Crazy fonts annoy me. Too cutesy illustrations too.
Fyretigger
If the time estimate cannot be somewhat realistic, just skip it.
AllieTaylor
Please, put both metric and imperial measurements in. It’s 2024! Then you don’t have to have two editions!!!! What an idea?!?
Vague instructions can be irritating (‘cook until done’: well, yes, it does take account of the vagaries of different ovens, sea levels, etc, but it would nice to know that it’s going to take 6 hours, not 45 mins). Times out of mind I have embarked on a voyage of discovery in the kitchen that I so wish I’d known was going to drive me to distraction. Some kind of roadmap please. Oops, do I have to explain what a roadmap is?
Totally agree with you on Nigella L and Diana H. Bliss. Sometimes, I think it’s because they are interpreting for the reader their personal experience rather than listing a culinary shorthand. But I have to say that I love quirkiness, even when it grates. So, carry on with ‘season to perfection’ even though I’m gritting my teeth (I’m looking at you, JO!). If a writer has filtered out their own voice, it ceases to be interesting. One is there for the destination only and not the journey.
Omg, I love cookery books! In some dim far-flung future, they will shine a light on our consciousness and culture.
arlojill
Thank you for this interesting post!!
cookbookaddict2020