In My Kitchen: A Collection of
New and Favorite Vegetarian Recipes by Deborah Madison
shares 100 innovative recipes from her vast career which not only
brought vegetarian food to the center stage but also elevated it.
The recipes shared are pared down to the key ingredients needed to
achieve delicious, nuanced flavor, with simplified
preparations.
This vegetable-forward cookbook, which I think is her most
beautiful yet, is organized alphabetically and features recipes
like Roasted Jerusalem Artichoke Soup with Sunflower Sprouts;
Fennel Shaved with Tarragon and Walnuts; and Carrot Soup with Zesty
Relish or Smoky-Spice Butter which are sure to be the main
attraction. So often vegetarian recipes are regulated to side
dishes or as an option for the vegetarians in our lives but the
dishes herein will be the stars of the table.
Anise Seed Shortbread with Star Anise Impressions is stunning
and I'm going to attempt to bake this recipe soon. Be sure to try
the Warmed Feta with Toasted Sesame Seeds - so simple and yet so
elegant. The Warm Red Cabbage Salad with Togarashi Tofu Crisps is
on my list for next week (I even think I can get my husband to try
this - I will just tell him the tofu is cheese.)
The book is gorgeous and the recipes are tempting but Deborah
really struck a chord with this passage: "Don't apologize because
you feel your food is lacking. If you do that, you just take away
the pleasure of others. In my experience, this can be a hard lesson
to learn, yet I feel it's the most important one, and one I'm still
learning." I know I do this - I demand so much of myself especially
when we have guests over. While cooking brings me happiness and I
know I'm pretty good at it, I feel the need to apologize if I think
something is a little off. As cooks we love to nurture and take
care of people, there is no need to downgrade our efforts and their
enjoyment with self-sabatoging remarks.
Thanks to Deborah and Ten Speed for sharing this show stopper
flan with our readers. Be sure to head to our contest page to enter our giveaway for
three copies of In My Kitchen.
CHARD AND SAFFRON
FLAN
1 pound chard (enough leaves to make 8 cups, minus the
stems)
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 hefty spring onion, quartered lengthwise and diced into
small pieces (enough to make about a cup), or 1 medium onion,
finely diced
1 plump garlic clove, pounded in a mortar or finely minced Sea
salt and freshly ground pepper
2 large eggs
A big pinch of saffron threads soaked in 1 tablespoon
near-boiling water
1 1⁄2 cups cream or 3⁄4 cup half-and-half
mixed with 3⁄4 cup ricotta
Grated zest of 1 lemon
1⁄4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Butter
About 1⁄2 cup almonds, ground or finely chopped
almonds
3 tablespoons pine nuts or slivered almonds
The Spring Greens
Several handfuls of greens and herbs (see page 88)
Sea salt Olive oil
Lemon juice or vinegar
Heat the oven to 375°F. Tear or chop the chard into pieces,
then wash and drain the pieces, but do not dry them. Heat the oil
over medium-high heat in a wide skillet and add the onion. Move it
around the pan to cook for about a minute, then add the chard with
the water clinging to its leaves. Sprinkle over 1⁄2 teaspoon of
salt and cook, turning the leaves occasionally, until they're soft,
about 8 to 10 minutes for later-season chard, which can be tough,
less for more tender leaves. Turn off the heat. Taste for salt and
season with pepper.
Beat the eggs in a bowl, then stir in the saffron water (plus
threads), cream, lemon zest, and grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. Stir
in the chard and season with pepper.
To finish, butter a 4-cup gratin dish, then dust the bottom
and sides of the dish with the finely chopped almonds. Pour in the
filling and scatter the pine nuts or almonds over the surface. Bake
until the flan is golden and set, about 30 minutes.
TO MAKE THE SALAD Tear the herbs into large
pieces and keep the more salady greens larger. Toss them with salt,
just enough olive oil to coat lightly, and a few drops of lemon
juice or vinegar to sharpen the flavors.
Put the dressed spring greens on individual plates and spoon
the flan carefully over or next to them. The heat of the flan will
wilt them a bit and bring out their aromas.
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